Feedback from a 5 day Mountain Wildeness Hike 19 – 23 February 2013

Dear Philip,

It has been now the second time that we came to the Drakensberg region for hiking with you. After our first hike (the Mini Traverse in the Northern Drakensberg in 2009) which exceeded all our expectations and which let us fall in love with the spectacular nature of the Drakensberg, we definitely wanted to join you again to experience more of one of the most beautiful places in the world.

This time you recommended visiting a different part of the mountains. In these 5 days, we got indeed a completely different view of the Berg. If one would ask us if we prefer one over the other we would not be able to answer this question. We reckon it is the diversity itself which is part of the charm of the Drakensberg.

One is for sure; it was again an absolute pleasure to hike with you, not only because of your profound knowledge about Basotho culture, geology as well as flora and fauna of the Drakensberg. Probably it is the fact that you are in love with the Wilderness yourself, which makes the hikes with you so special.

Thanks again Philip, take care and many greetings to Christeen and Craig

Anja & Stefan

Here are some of Anja’s pictures:

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Feedback from the 3 day Cross – Cultural hike 25 – 27 January 2013

Hi Phil,

We hope you are fine! We are now back in the cold France hoping not to get sick!

We sent you some pictures so let us know if you receive it.

This is a little feed-back of our trek with you:

It was a really nice trek, during which we learnt a lot about the fauna, the flora and the geology of the drakensberg, and discovered some of the Lesotho’s culture. The feeling to be put in the complete wild of these wonderful mountains was really exciting and all along the trek, their magic enfolded us.

The time spent in the Lesotho’s village was very nice as we had the opportunity the talk with the very welcoming people as much as we wanted to. We regreted not to have brought some items these people would have need however, like pencils, covers, or clothes.

Well organized, this hike was also characterized by the flexibility of our guide, Philip Grant, who tried to adapt it with our own desire and capacities.

We would recommend this trek to anybody who wish to live an adventure in the Drakensberg!

Thanks again Phil, say hello to your wife and Richard, take care!

Florent

The Western Border of the Drakensberg

On the Western Border of our Drakensberg World Heritage Site is an independent country with another culture – I am referring of course to Lesotho.

In the course of our work as mountain guides over the past seven years or so, which frequently involve multi-day trips within Lesotho, we have increasingly come to the realisation that a sizable proportion of stories that circulate in South Africa of negative interactions between (mainly) South African hikers and travellers and Basotho people on the western border of the Drakensberg, or within Lesotho, arise first and foremost from a basic ignorance of Basotho culture, and what to expect in Lesotho or when hiking on top of the Drakensberg, sometimes combined with a disregard for Lesotho’s status as a fully independent country. These misunderstandings and misinterpretations often result in feelings of intimidation and fear amongst (mainly) South African visitors when meeting Basotho people in the mountains, for a variety of reasons.

More worryingly, and perhaps of even more concern, is the way these negative stories become embellished by others, after the so called ‘victims’ have returned to South Africa. Those who embellish the stories frequently have even less knowledge of what to expect on top of the Drakensberg and in Lesotho than the so called ‘victims’, and seemingly purposely misinterpret, change and sensationalise these stories for reasons we can only speculate on.

Still more people comment and react hysterically on the embellished stories before taking the trouble to obtain the facts. Through the media and the medium of email these inaccurate and negative stories, and the ‘knee-jerk’ reactions to them, sometimes circulate around the globe, with implications for South Africa’s and Lesotho’s tourist industry, which so many of us in the Southern Drakensberg rely on to a greater and lesser degree for our livelihoods.

In our opinion, if this phenomenon continues unchecked it will eventually result in a serious confrontation on the western border of our Drakensberg World Heritage Site which, when it happens, will have very far reaching negative consequences.

We have two case studies in writing (with names removed) to show how this happens.

We have been accused of trying to ‘hide the truth’, or even that ‘our vested interests as mountain guides overshadow our ability to reason’.

On the contrary, we are interested in circulating a true, accurate, rational and knowledgably interpreted version of any so called ‘incident’. This is surely in the interest of us all, especially those of us working in the tourist industry, as well as in the interests our South African and overseas visitors.

With our ever increasing knowledge of Lesotho and the ‘way things work’ there, we believe that we can make a positive contribution, by realistically helping to interpret and unravel negative stories emanating from the top of the Drakensberg and Lesotho. We do not for a moment think that we will have all the answers all the time, but rather that we can add an alternative perspective, and an alternative interpretation.

We would be prepared to meet with anyone with an open mind who is prepared to listen, in the interests of hopefully helping to prevent a serious confrontation, which unfortunately at this stage, we think is inevitable in the not too distant future.

We have written five pages of ‘Notes on Basotho Culture for Hikers and Overland Travellers in Lesotho’. They have been published in the latest Mountain Club of South Africa Journal. We will gladly email a copy on request. Alternatively they can be downloaded from our website http://www.southernsecrets.co.za click on ‘blog’.

Philip and Christeen Grant

082 417 9162 / 3
pgrant@yebo.co.za
christeen@yebo.co.za
http://www.southernsecrets.co.za

Go! Magazine article on packing a rucksack

Drakensberg Hiking Guide Philip Grant regularly sets off into the mountains for long stretches of time and he’s got the packing of his backpack down to a fine art. If you’re new to hiking and you can’t decide what to pack and whether your sleeping bag should go at the top or the bottom, inside or outside, this is his advice.

You will need the following for a multi-day Drakensberg High Traverse in winter. Downscale this list for lower altitude hikes and / or according to the seasons.

• Comfortable good quality rucksack – at least 70 – 75 litres capacity. For general backpacking I prefer packs with plenty of large accessible outside pockets. My first internal frame pack was a Backpacker Boulder and I found it ideal. The North Ridge Route 75 is a very good newer alternative, as are the new Backpacker series. I now have one of each.

• Tent – For Drakensberg hiking regard a two person tent as a one person tent and a three person tent as a two person tent. This gives you room to bring all your kit inside at night or in wet weather and still have room to cook in the bell(s) if necessary. When sleeping solo and for single clients I use a K-Way Treklite II. It has a good sized bell and is very rigid in strong wind. If sharing I use a trusted 30 year old three person Backpacker Kestrel, it has a separate entrance and bell at each end which means that each person can have their own entrance, exit and cooking space – avoiding the irritation of having to climb over your tent buddy and their cooking arrangements! For clients sharing, I supply Bushtec North Wind tents for the same reasons. They are a bit on the heavy side, but are robust and strong in wind. Weight can be shared by splitting the poles and pegs from the remainder of the tent.

• Sleeping Bag – I use three different sleeping bags depending on the season and the expected weather. On top of the Drakensberg in all weathers – I use a First Ascent Fusion 900 goose down -15C. For Caves – a Bergmaster Iceline hollow fill -10C. For warmer low altitude and coastal trips – a trustworthy 30 year old Cederberg down fill bag.

• Polartec Inner Liner – This keeps your sleeping bag clean. It is light, easy to wash, increases the bag’s thermal rating by as much as -5C and can double as a sleeping bag on its own in very hot weather. Made by First Ascent.

• Closed cell sleeping mat – or self-inflating mattress. Buy the best, lightest and most robust you can afford!

• Light plastic groundsheet – Buy a strong reinforced ‘space blanket’, or make your own from a piece of heavy duty plastic sheeting. Alternatively use a plastic survival bag made by Camp Trails (very useful to get inside on very cold nights if your sleeping bag does not live up to its thermal rating as promised by that over-eager salesperson (you can catch up with him or her later!).

• Backpack splash cover – makes such as Karrimor are easily obtainable from any hiking shop. It must be big enough to cover your pack and any items strapped onto the outside.

• Good quality raingear – jacket and pants (doubles as windproof gear) – mine is made by Red Mountain. If I was expecting heavy rain or snow I would pack an extra outer waterproof jacket layer. Wearing two waterproof layers also cuts down on condensation.

• Whistle – small and loud!

• Personal medication and toiletries – I take a small folding toothbrush (free on most international flights!), a very small tube of toothpaste, roll-on deodorant (for the sake of my hiking companions!) comb and a small synthetic towel. Using soap (even so called bio-degradable soap) in wilderness areas is controversial. If you must use soap, carry water away from streams and wash there. Shampoo is an unnecessary extra weight. Use toothpaste away from streams and remember to leave no trace!

• Sun bloc

• Plasters – roll plaster works best for blisters – apply straight over the ‘hot-spot’.
Clothing

• Your favourite hiking boots

• Sun hat

• Beanie or balaclava

• Waterproof gloves or mittens – large enough to go over your fleece gloves.

• Good quality fleece jacket – In my experience a down jacket is too warm for almost all our SA hiking conditions. Better to purchase a really good quality thick fleece jacket – try First Ascent – then use a rain suit top to cut wind if necessary. Down does not hold heat when wet…

• Gaiters – snow or ankle.

• 2 x hiking shorts – these double as swimming costumes (if you must)! – First Ascent makes a good product with inbuilt underwear. They are very light, quick drying and hard wearing.

• 2 x hiking shirts – preferably wic-dri. Try First Ascent again. Look for ones with long sleeves and collars for protection against the sun.

• Light Fleece top – I find this a very useful extra layer for when it is too warm for the thick fleece, or in addition to the thick fleece when it is very cold. First Ascent again.

• Fleece tracksuit pants – First Ascent make a good product with reinforced bum pad and knee pads.

• Woollen Hiking socks

• Fleece gloves

• Neck scarf or Buff – good for sun protection and when it is cold.

• FOOD!!

• Small stove – A very personal choice, but I have been using the basic Camping Gaz Bluet range, at all altitudes in the Drakensberg since I started hiking some 35 years ago. The cylinders are cheap and are obtainable almost anywhere. A stainless steel mug can be placed directly on top of the stove for that quick cuppa.

• Spare fuel – in my case one or two spare Camping Gaz cylinders.

• Cooking pots – I use my original pair of rectangular interlocking army issue dixie’s. They are still available from hiking shops.

• Spork – what a great invention!

• Stainless steel mug – this also serves as an extra pot.

• Swiss Army Knife – choose the lightest model which includes a tin opener!

• Head Torch – Another great invention! For many years I used an inexpensive Energiser head torch available from most hardware shops. I have since upgraded to a Petzl.

• Spare batteries – for head torch, GPS and camera. Try to select models that all take the same light AAA batteries.

• Small synthetic towel

• Toilet paper – in double Ziploc bag with its own matches and Bic lighter!

• Bic lighter(s) – and / or matches. Please do not leave used matchsticks (or horror of horrors – cigarette ends!) anywhere – this constitutes rubbish – please remember leave no trace!

• Digging tool for ablutions – one or two can be shared between the group. I have made a light one from a cut down window putty knife. ‘Download’ well away from watercourses and paths. After burning your toilet paper – but only if you are absolutely sure it is safe to do so – if in doubt DON’T! – cover your deposit and then place a large rock over it. Once again – leave no trace!

• Passport – if hiking on to the ‘High ‘Berg’ and into Lesotho.

• Maps, compass and (GPS) – Most of my hiking experience was before the advent of GPS’s so we had to rely on map-reading and compass skills. As a professional guide, I carry a small Garmin Geko 201 which has proved more than adequate. I work with waypoints to confirm my position if necessary, either lifting them from a map in advance, or recording them along the way. This is accurate enough for hiking purposes. In my opinion, a GPS should always be used in conjunction with a good map and compass. Mine stays switched off until needed, so conserving batteries.

• Notebook and pencil

• Light waterproof sandals – such as Crocs, are great for evenings as well as swimming and crossing rivers and streams.

• Bags for your all your rubbish!!

• Camera

• Light binoculars

• Swimming costume – very optional – quote: ‘the most pointless thing to carry in your pack is a wet swimming costume!’

• Sunglasses – very important if there is a possibility of snow around.

• Cellphone – for emergency use only!

• Trekking poles or hiking stick – I use two poles if carrying a full pack. In long grass they can become a liability, in that case, strap them to the back of your pack.

 

How to pack the rucksack!

There is no such thing as a waterproof rucksack! Wrap all items that need to be kept dry in plastic bags and / or preferably Ziploc bags!

I pack for practicality first and foremost, so I can find things quickly, make a cup of tea and have a snack along the way without unpacking everything, and pack quickly in the morning to avoid the embarrassment of having my already packed hiking companions itching to move and smugly standing around watching me…!!

• Open up the rucksack to its full capacity by unzipping the horizontal partition. In my experience you will eventually remove all the items from your pack every evening looking for that pesky ‘lost’ item anyway, and I find it is quicker to repack from scratch each morning!

• Pack your tent and sleeping bag first. Wrap your sleeping bag up well in black plastic garbage bags. The last thing you want when you crawl exhausted into your sleeping bag at the end of the day is a wet bed! In my experience it is better to have the tent inside your pack as this avoids any possibility of a ‘lost pole’ or ‘lost peg’ which can happen if your tent is attached to the outside of the rucksack. The comparatively heavy tent is then close to your back.

• Pack your First Aid kit at the back and bottom of the rucksack in the space left between the sleeping bag and tent. This enables you to reach it quickly if necessary through the zippered flap that you would normally have used to reach the bottom compartment.

• Next add your spare clothes – again wrapped in garbage bags.

• Slide flat items such as your folded groundsheet (useful for caves) and maps (that you are not using at the time), down the space between these items and the front of the rucksack. Keep your passport, wilderness permits, cell phone, car keys, money, GPS, and compass (when you are not using them) with your maps – once again protected in a large Ziploc bag.

• Pack your cooking pots next and use them as secure and safe protection for fragile items such as spectacles, sunglasses and head torch.

• Next pack your food. After carefully working out a menu and what you will consume each day, in my experience, you will find it easier to place all the food items for the hike in one large transparent bag and fish out what you actually feel like eating at any particular time. Put your Swiss Army knife, salt, pepper Parmesan cheese and spices (in old 35mm film containers if you can still find some) with the food.

• On top of the food bag, pack your fleece or down jacket as this will insulate your precious melt-able items! Your jacket will then be easy to get at when the weather changes. Place your fleece gloves and beanie in the pockets of your jacket.

• Bottom left hand pocket. Pack your spare Gaz cylinder(s). Possibly add your toiletries here if you are short of space (see below).

• Bottom right hand pocket. Pack your toilet paper, small digging tool, (spare) matches and (spare) lighter to burn used toilet paper (but only when safe to do so!) placed in two (one inside the other) Ziploc bags! In this pocket also add your toiletries (if possible) so that all are together for your morning ablutions!

• Top left hand pocket. Stove, and one of two 500ml water-bottles, ‘Game’ sachets and sugar container.

• Top right hand pocket. Second 500ml water-bottle, stainless steel mug, Bic lighter, Spork, tea, coffee and powdered milk containers and your (small?) stash of ‘sun-downers’…In my opinion a good whisky is the only thing that can improve our Drakensberg water!

• Top pocket, rucksack splash cover, rain suit (with your waterproof gloves in its pockets), gaiters, hat (when you are not wearing it) plus your binoculars, and camera in Ziploc bags.

• Attach your Crocs and closed cell sleeping mat (wrapped in plastic) to the outside of the rucksack. Attach your whistle to one of the shoulder straps. Avoid attaching anything else except your hiking poles (when you are not using them) to the outside of your rucksack, especially mugs or other items that will drive you and your fellow hikers mad with their flapping and rattling with your every step!

And that’s it!

Of hiking clubs and smugglers…

I have often explained on guided trips how most indigenous rural people in Africa find it difficult to understand why anyone would walk anywhere for pleasure. For most Africans a journey must have a practical purpose. To collect water, fuel, herd animals or go to and from their fields. When hiking in Lesotho, we are often stopped and asked ‘where we are going?’, and then ‘why?’ When we reply that we are climbing the mountain to ‘look at the view’ this is met with a mixture of perplexity and incredulity.

While relaxing at Sani Top Chalet after a hike to Hodgson’s Peaks the other day, in walked a group of about twelve or fourteen male and female hikers dressed in the latest up-to-date hiking kit, complete with large overnight packs, tents and sleeping bags. They had just completed a tough three or four day ‘High Traverse’ along the Drakensberg, through some very inclement weather including snow and high winds.

Nothing strange about that you think?

Except that they were all Basotho people, members of a hiking club from their capital Maseru! It turns out that their club has about thirty members and is active most weekends!

A few days later in general conversation, a hiking friend happened to remark, that the dagga (marijuana) smugglers in Lesotho ‘must be making lots of money these days’ as he had seen a party of smugglers behind the Drakensberg escarpment wearing really good hiking kit, one of them in particular wearing a jacket he would have liked for himself! I asked how he knew they were dagga smugglers? He replied ‘because they were carrying large bags… but they were friendly, and they returned my greetings!’…

When questioned further, it turned out that he was hiking exactly where the Thaphoha Hiking Club from Maseru would have been on their traverse to Sani Top…!

Philip Grant
April 2012

The difference between wilderness and countryside…

Most of our clients are people from highly developed countries. They may never have considered that what they had previously experienced as ‘nature’ in their own countries is actually ‘countryside’. Outside their towns and cities is a landscape changed by man in many ways, either by commercial farming, or by the ‘landscaping’ associated with rural development, with many exotic trees and plants, fences, fields, roads and power lines. Most are unable to get away from the constant sound of cars and aircraft.

 Few have had the privilege of spending time in true ‘wilderness’ environment truly untouched by man.

 Most of the Drakensberg World Heritage Site is wilderness. Within a short time one can be in a completely timeless landscape, looking exactly as it would have looked long before humans walked the planet. As it is now generally accepted that humans evolved in Africa, it may not be too far-fetched to consider it to be a remainder of the ‘Garden of Eden’.

 The majority of our clients have never before drunk unpolluted water straight out of a stream or river, or experienced complete natural silence. The realisation of the deep meaning of this can produce a kind of spiritual euphoria, and a new awareness of how we as humans are linked to what is left of nature. As a fifteen year old schoolgirl commented on one of our trips ‘We do not look after nature, nature looks after us’.

Philip Grant
January 2012

Can a Hike be a Dance?

It is my belief that the act of thoughtfully and sensitively planning a hike can approach choreography.

Landscape, views and vistas can be made to unfold, rather like a story in a picture book or a ballet. A good hiking route should have a focal point (the objective), and ideally, even after the objective has been reached, some more hidden ‘secrets’ to discover on the return journey.

Seen in this way, a hike becomes a sort of dance through nature and the environment. When all the right elements work together, the participants (dancers) will come to the end of the hike, with much the same sensations as at the end of a dance, physically tired, but at the same time feeling inspired and uplifted, almost in a spiritual way.

Philip Grant

July 2011

Are the Drakensberg Cliffs or Mountains?

Recently, while on a Southern Secrets day hike from Sani Top Chalet to the well known Hodgson’s Peaks (3256m), situated either side of the Giants Cup on the edge of the Drakensberg escarpment, I was struck by how no two human beings see things in exactly the same way, no matter how ‘like-minded’ we might be.

 That’s what helps to make us individuals.

 From the province of KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa, the Drakensberg is a spectacular and seemingly impenetrable range of mountains. The Zulu people call them ‘Ukhahlamba’ or the ‘Barrier of Spears’, a towering rock wall stretching for hundreds of kilometres, symbolised by the iconic ‘Amphitheatre’ in the Northern Drakensberg, featured in nearly every coffee table book on South African scenery.

Hodgeson’s Peaks and the Giant’s Cup as seen from South Africa

 But from Lesotho, the Drakensberg, because it is an escarpment, appears as a line of cliffs, the ‘Cliffs of Natal’ or ‘Dilomo tsa Natala’. South Africa, the world beyond, and especially KwaZulu Natal appears as a land way below, stretching as far as the eye can see into the distance. For many young Basotho, highways, railways, the sea, ships and airliners are something only heard about from others. The twinkling lights of the South African towns represent a lifestyle very different from that back in their home villages.

 From the well-known Sani Top Chalet, the ‘Highest Pub in Africa’  the hiking route to Hodgson’s Peaks and the ‘Giants Cup’ entails approaching the area from the Lesotho interior, actually hiking in the Maluti Mountains, a vast ancient high plateau at the top of the Drakensberg escarpment. When viewed from this perspective the landscape is very different. What from the South African side appear as the two freestanding Hodgson’s Peaks, are now the ends of two ridges extending back into Lesotho.

 It occurred to me that there must be a lesson in this somewhere! As individuals, cultures and religions we see the same things so differently. And in this is a key to understanding the many misunderstandings of our turbulent Southern African history.

 If it was possible for all of us to understand and appreciate our numerous different perspectives, wouldn’t it remove the reason for most, if not all, human bickering, argument and wars?

Philip Grant

May 2011

(For more information on hiking and pony trekking in the Drakensberg & Lesotho, visit www.southernsecrets.co.za)

A five day mountain hiking and cultural trip in the Maluti Mountains 1 to 5 May 2011

I recently guided two Drakensberg Adventures’ clients on a five day expedition, the primary objective being to climb the highest point in Southern Africa (Thabana Ntlenyana 3482m). A secondary objective was to gain some ‘sense of place’ and background to the area.

Wil and Bert had already climbed the highest point in North Africa (in the Atlas Mountains), the highest point in West Africa (Mount Cameroon), the highest point in East Africa (Mount Kilimanjaro)……..twice, and now wanted to complete their collection!

Wil & Bert

The summit of Thabana Ntlenyana is in Lesotho’s Maluti Mountains about 5kms from the edge of the Drakensberg Escarpment. After driving up Sani Pass in a Drakensberg Adventure’s 4×4 on the first day, we hiked to the Masubasuba area on the edge of the Drakensberg and had a late picnic lunch on the southern Hodgson’s Peak (3256m)

Looking towards Sani Pass from Phinong

On the following morning we walked across to the escarpment edge near the peak of Phinong before driving on into Lesotho for a night at ‘No 10 Riverside’ the home of Ntate Thabiso Nkune and family. We included a trip to the town of Mkhotlong, a cultural visit to a nearby village and their traditional healer.

On the way to Thabana Nylenyana

On the fourth day we woke up at Sani Top Chalet before sunrise to tackle Thabana Ntlenyana from Kotisephola (or Black Mountain Pass) a total distance of 24kms. There was thick white frost and ice everywhere, and the first sun on the millions of jewel-like icy reflections was especially beautiful. The hike took us just over eight hours and we were back at Sani Top Chalet in time to drive back down into South Africa.

Wil and Bert on the very cold and windy summit of Thabana Ntlenyana (3482m) recording a video to celebrate their four African ascents

On the last day we walked from Sani Lodge Backpackers to ‘The Marching Men of Khanti’ an impressive and evocative San or Bushman Rock Art site in the ‘Little Berg’.

Philip Grant

May 2011

Useful contacts http://www.drakensbergadventures.co.za

Feedback

 Dear Philip,

 How is life in the Drakensbergen these days?

 We had a safe trip home and went back to work again. But our heads are still full of the wonderful memories of our stay in the beautiful Drakensbergen and Maluti mountains. We would like to thank you once more for your pleasant and inspiring company and for your willingness to share your remarkable knowledge of the mountain flora, fauna, geology, Basotho culture, Bushman rock art and African history. Having a guide like you was definitely a big added value to our trip. I guess people who do self-guided hikes can have a nice time too, but they don’t really know what they are missing.

 I do hope your health will allow you to continue hiking for many more years to come.

 Until we meet again,

 Best regards,

 Wil Resing (Brussels)

also on behalf of Bert Kamphorst (Utrecht) 

Private Cross Cultural hike in the Mnweni area of the Northern Drakensberg – 22 to 27 April 2011

Over an extended Easter holiday in South Africa I was joined by my brother from Grahamstown, together with a few of his hiking friends from the Eastern Cape Section of the Mountain Club of SA, for an extended (and strenuous) cross cultural hike. On this ‘trial run’ we carried all our own kit.

We started and ended the hike at the community run ‘Mnweni Visitors Centre’ where we met our excellent and very competent Zulu guide Caiphus. Our route took us to a first night campsite near Shepherds Cave, and then up the truly spectacular Mnweni Pass for a second night in tents, very near the source of the Senqu (Orange) river and close to the edge of the Drakensberg, (or for the Basotho the ‘Cliffs of Natal’). On the third day we hiked down the beautiful Senqu River valley to the village of ‘Tsoana Makhulo’. On the way we stopped and chatted to some young Basotho shepherds with their huge guard dogs, close to their rough stone ‘cattle posts’ or Metibo.. They performed a few impromptu shepherd dances and songs for us, before we continued on to the village.

We were warmly welcomed, and pitched our tents next to some of the huts. Our hosts cooked some traditional food for us in the evening, and prepared some traditional Basotho travelling food (or in Afrikaans ‘padkos’) for us the next morning. We had to drag ourselves away from their hospitality as they performed dance after dance, and tried to encourage us to stay a bit longer with them! From the village we cut back to the head to Ntonjelana Pass by following a well used Basotho path along the stunningly pretty Koakoatsi River valley.

After a last night in tents we descended the long Ntonjelana Pass and Ntonjelana River, to the home of our guide and his family, about six kilometres short of the Mnweni Visitors Centre. At the bottom of the pass we were overtaken by two Mosotho ladies wearing normal clothes and shoes, one with a suitcase strapped to her back and the other with a sleeping baby on hers! They had left the Lesotho homesteads (near where we had slept two nights previously) that morning!

Our last evening was spent enjoying some warm traditional Zulu hospitality, delicious traditional food, and spirited dancing which we were allowed to participate in (!). After breakfast we hiked the last leg back to our vehicles for the drive home. On the way Caiphus took us to view a Bushman (or San) rock art site.

This trip has great potential to be run as a commercial trip in the future as porters can be hired through the Mnweni Visitors Centre, making hikes in that area achievable for all reasonably fit hikers.

Philip Grant, April 2011

For more information on guided hiking in the Drakensberg or other mountain ranges in South Africa, visit www.southernsecrets.co.za